Two Ionian Islands
Kefalonia & Zakynthos: A Tale of Two Halves
We’ve decided on a far safer day out together, exploring Zakynthos Town on foot, presuming it may have rather more cultural offerings than Tsilivi. So we wave goodbye to the ladies, and cross the promenade, to the Church of Agios Dionysios, an ornate Orthodox Church in which an ancient priest in a wheelchair gazes silently out to sea while whispering tourists wonder if they can sneak a photo of the painted ceilings and gold-plated altar.
After 40 bouncy minutes we start cruising past the Zakynthos coastline and as the sun sets we pull into Zakynthos Town itself and disembark. Our destination is a cab ride away, and we eventually pull up at Rodis Suites in Tragaki where Alison, the yoga teacher for our week ahead, has already gathered our fellow guests for the welcome dinner.
Leaving behind the cute waterfront village of Agi Efimia, before us lies some of Kefalonia’s most stunning scenery. Driving high up into the mountains once more we’re rewarded with jaw dropping views over azure seas to the neighbouring island of Ithaca and on to mainland Greece in the far distance.
Shaken by the impact, and bleeding in quite a few places, I wash away the dirt in the sink and find a pharmacist who, concerned at my dishevelled appearance, sprays the cuts with antiseptic and provides a range of plasters. Back at the hotel, Coman has been getting worried at my absence so when I arrive back looking like I’ve been in a fight he heads straight to reception to fetch iodine and patch me up.
Before us stretched a week exploring Kefalonia, which had long been on my list to visit, followed by a week of zen tranquility on neighbouring Zakynthos where we would join a yoga retreat. And our first morning’s exploration had come up trumps.
Our driver, Johnny, speaks very little English but is quite a character. Coman and I sit upfront with him and he pumps out Greek hits from random radio stations, singing along and at times waving his hands in the air. He frequently forgets to fasten his seatbelt and has an erratic view of speed limits, often slowing to a snail’s pace for no reason before taking bends at eye-watering speeds.