For many tourists, the biggest reason Belize has become a must-see destination is the fact it has one of the greatest coral reefs on the planet. Apparently Jacques Cousteau named it his favourite place to dive after the Great Barrier Reef, which we were lucky enough to snorkel on 14 years ago during our honeymoon. So we’re not going to miss the chance to explore Belize’s Barrier Reef, particularly after having had it so highly recommended by Samantha, the conservationist and restauranteur we met in Playa Del Carmen.
To prepare for the day ahead we take Aquilino’s suggestion and get a breakfast ‘fry jack’ wrap at a little shack called Errolyn’s House around the corner from the hotel, along with a fresh watermelon, pineapple and kiwi juice from the hut next door. The fry jack turns out to be like a deep-fried pita bread filled with eggs and beans and is not the greatest dish on the planet, and possibly the cause of Coman’s later misfortune, but at least we’re fed for a day on the water.
Our entire group have all chosen to go snorkelling together so Aquilino leads us to Mario’s Snorkelling Tours, where they fit us all for flippers and even have a prescription snorkelling mask waiting for Coman so he can properly enjoy the sights of the reef underwater too. The catamaran they provide for us is proudly called Best Life Ever and manned by dive leaders Mike, Joe and Rob, along with chef Frank who welcomes us all on board with plates of fresh fruit.
Mike is in charge and challenges us, “We play reggae music. Tell us now if you don’t like it… and we’ll turn it up!” We set off for the day, powered by wind and sail, and head first to the Holchan reserve area which is protected and patrolled to prevent fishing, and we need special wristbands to be permitted to snorkel there. It seems a fair few other catamarans have also got permits sorted too as the area is fairly full of people being led out by dive leaders to explore.
There’s so much to see, and thankfully one of our group has an underwater camera. The coral reefs are beautiful and we snorkel above a huge variety of healthy coral, testament to the work being done to protect and restore damaged reefs. And the variety of sea life is very impressive too with barracuda, puffer fish, sergeant major fish, angel fish, sting rays, red snapper, blue parrot fish and many more circling around us.
Our next stop is Shark Alley where we make anchor and are immediately surrounded by a school of nurse sharks. Assured that they’re not interested in eating us we all get into the water and spend fifteen astonishing minutes swimming amongst them. It really is magnificent, as is our third stop, named the Coral Gardens, for all its different coral growths. We’re encouraged to dive here just in pairs, without a leader needed, and Coman and I have a wonderful experience where a large green turtle swims slowly with us for a couple of minutes.
Back on the boat it’s lunchtime, and Frank has prepared us all food, along with a dangerously strong and unlimited vat of rum punch. We spend the journey back lazing in the sunshine, taking turns to lie in the nets just above the water, relaxing and talking, with Ahmed and Elizabeth even showing their salsa moves at the back of the boat.
About half an hour from shore Coman starts feeling unwell. Something he’s eaten has taken a turn for the worse, combined with the sunshine, salt water, motion of the ocean and rum punch, so when we get back to the hotel he heads to bed while I join the others at the southern end of the main island, named The Split, which is across a narrow stretch of water from a more undeveloped sister island, housing wooded areas, a couple of all inclusive resorts and some wild crocodiles.
The Split is the perfect spot to watch another sunset, this time dressing the sky with strange colours including a vibrant blue comet-like trail above us. A few of us stop at Fran’s Beach Shack Grill, a pop up kitchen on the beach which one of our group, Vicki, had come to sixteen years ago and fallen in love with Caye Caulker, promising its owner she would one day return.
Fran is still there and Vicki shows Fran the photo she has brought of the two of them together and the older lady is amazed and delighted. We all get two free cups of rum punch to celebrate. It makes the vegetable curry we are served even more enjoyable, and our group even more merry.
Next morning Coman is still feeling a bit under the weather so he has a lie in while I join Elizabeth and fellow Intrepid traveller Beth, a sign-language interpreter and yoga teacher who works within the deaf community, for a yoga session under the shade of palm trees looking out to the Caribbean. It’s a very lovely start to the day and once Coman is up again we spend the day pottering around the island, taking things easy in this little tropical idyll, grabbing a spot of lunch at a reggae beach restaurant called Bambooze, and swimming in the lovely clear waters by The Split.
Coman heads back to the hotel while I have a beer at the Lazy Lizard and watch the world go by. Later on we join the rest of the group so that Aquilino can outline the details for our long day of travelling tomorrow to a very different part of Belize, deep in the jungle interior.
While the group go for a big seafood feast at Roy’s Blue Water Diner together, Coman still hasn’t recovered his appetite so we pack our bags and then wander to a lovely Italian restaurant called Il Pelicanno. It’s a gorgeous and tranquil spot, all fairy lights and sophistication, where Coman sips a Sprite for his upset stomach whilst watching me tuck into pizza and red wine.
Thankfully a good night’s sleep works wonders and the following morning he’s ready to face our boat trip back to the mainland, as we’ve got quite an adventure ahead!
