A short boat crossing from Mykonos harbour lies the island of Delos, now uninhabited save for a small phalanx of archaeologists, but once the centre of Cycladian life and home to tens of thousands of Ancient Greeks, or Naxions as they were then more commonly known. With the wind having calmed down somewhat this morning, the port has reopened and our planned trip to Delos can go ahead.
Boats on Delos
The 40 minute journey across to the island is not too bumpy but seated on the open deck there’s a definite chill in the air, and we’re glad to be pulling up to the small jetty and stepping into the warm sun, although slightly confused by the lone bronze statues that seem to rise out of various points on the island. Coman suggests they’re the work of Anthony Gormley, and sure enough once disembarked, we learn that the sculptor is indeed exhibiting work amongst the remains. It’s incredibly effective, giving a slight air of Pompeii to the ruined buildings and excavations.
Anthony Gormley figure
Once the chaotic apportioning of different groups to different tour guides has been accomplished, we head into the site, traipsing along narrow streets and seeing mosaics, crumbling walls, headless statues, proud columns, open squares, ruined shops and once-great establishments such as the House of Dionysius, House of Kleopatra, Portico of Philip V and the Sanctuary of Apollo.
At its centre is the dried-up oasis which was once the sacred Lake of Apollo where, according to ancient myth, Zeus’ bastard son was born. The lake was ringed by 13 stone lions to denote its significance, but now only five remain – their replicas still keeping watch, while the originals reside in the nearby museum. The palm tree under which the goddess Hera gave birth to the God of Light is long gone but the French archaeologists have since planted a new one to denote the significance of this centre of Greek life.
Outside the museum
In its time Delos was a commercial hub for the Mediterranean, with Roman, Phoenician and Greek city states variously controlling its huge wealth, and trade happening with merchants from Eqypt, Syria and beyond over the centuries, before it finally became abandoned around 400AD, left to become a haunt of pirates and the occasional Christian sect. Now it’s a tourist day trip, and an enjoyable one at that… but the crossing back is not quite so pleasant, the winds whipping the sea once more, and sick bags handed out by the crew to various passengers, including a white-faced Coman.
Far more to his liking is Scorpios, the beach-club and outpost of Soho House near Paraga beach, that we visit the following morning, to roast on the posh daybeds and eat a very nice, but ludicrously expensive, lunch in its idyllic restaurant overlooking an azure sea.
Lunch at Scorpios
We decide not to splash out €1350 on a bottle of champagne but have a delicious set of Greek dips and salad, along with fresh juices and a glass of house white, which is twice as expensive as its equivalent at the Vencia Boutique hotel… but then our waitress there, when describing it to us, only manages, “the box says white and dry”. Scorpios is a little more refined in its viticulture choices.
Even more refined is the hotel we stay in on our return to Mykonos, for the final night of our island odyssey after we leave Santorini. The Anax Resort & Spa is a fifteen-minute drive out of Mykonos Town and has spectacular views of six islands on the horizon, including Delos, Siros and Tinos. We’re staying for less than 24 hours but it weaves its charms instantly, with both lunch and dinner proving culinary highlights and Evangelie, the owner, introducing herself and after a fascinating chat presenting us with both a stone and glass ornament as a gift and a complimentary dessert; an exquisite cheesecake.
Anax pool
But it’s the suite we’re given – with a jacuzzi and its own private swimming pool – that really turns our heads. We weren’t expecting that. And the incredible dual infinity pools that frame the setting sun are the icing on the cake, a fantastical setting that reminds us why Mykonos is renowned as the most expensive and indulgent of the Greek islands.
Thankfully – for our wallets – Naxos, the largest of the Cyclades, reveals a different side to island life… and one just as seductive!
