Breakfast at La Brasserie
Whistler, British Columbia
It’s pretty hazy outside when we awake but Bethan’s familiarity with Whistler’s best eateries means there’s no point in succumbing to the hugely over-priced hotel breakfast, so we walk into the main square of Whistler Village and settle on La Brasserie, where we tuck into a hearty start to the day. Unfortunately the smoke still shows no sign of disappearing and although we are able to appreciate the merits of Whistler’s shops and restaurants, the grey and featureless sky means the mountains and lakes are dimmed in their beauty by the unfortunate conditions.
Cycling around Whistler's lakes
Undeterred, and with the temperature still in the high 20s and no rain forecast, we hire bikes and head off for the day, exploring the Valley Trail. It takes us first around Alta and Nita Lakes, where we stop at the boutique hotel Nitas for coffee, discovering that the Whistler station for the Rocky Mountaineer train is right next door. Having originally considered booking a few days aboard when we were first planning this trip, we’re intrigued to see it when it passes through later that day, so make a note to be back for 2.45pm
Hopping back on our bikes we cycle to Alpha Lake and then on to Rainbow Park and through the River of Golden Dreams to Meadow Park and the edge of Green Lake where aqua planes rest on the water, ready to carry wealthy golfers to and from Vancouver and the golf course and clubhouse before us. Taking advantage of its bathroom facilities we realise we’re cutting it fine to get back for train so cycle fast back through Whistler Village, me racing ahead to make sure we get there in time.
As I pull to a stop the Rocky Mountaineer is before me, its liveried staff and velvet ropes denoting it’s no ordinary train. However, our earlier regret at not booking it is overturned when we see it, and its ageing passengers who are all a good 20-30 years older than us. It has the distinct air of retirement about it. The exorbitant cost would have been especially galling considering the smoke is also diminishing any views from the windows and glass roof.
By the lake at Nitas
Coman and Bethan make it in time to grab pictures of the carriages and we then relax with a lovely late lunch at Nita's and a well-earned cider or two. Before we drop off the bikes we cycle over to the Olympic Plaza in Whistler, and then, divested of our faithful two wheels we indulge ourselves with an hour in the hotel spa, swimming in the outdoor pool, relaxing in the (very) hot tub, sauna and steam room.
Our restaurant for dinner is Whistler’s most high-end option, the rather brilliant Araxi. Seated outside in the square watching the world go by, we treat ourselves to incredible cocktails, including my fantastic tequila & chili firecracker cocktail, and some magnificent vegetarian risotto and pasta dishes. And as we sit there, under the parasols, the pitter-patter of the first rain since June starts to fall.
