Jaipur, India
We departed the delights of Khem Villas over an hour late, still elated by our tiger sighting. One poor chap we spoke to yesterday had been there an entire week and not seen one, while the family who had bored us all on the first night had expressly told us at dinner yesterday not to inform them if we had a tiger sighting this morning as they had already given up. I passed the mother as she was checking out and gave her a beatific smile. Her look in response could have curdled milk.
We hopped into our waiting car, greeting Kamal with big smiles. He was pleased we had seen a tiger. Upon establishing that the road to Jaipur via Tonk was about the same as going back the way we had come to Dhosa and then hitting the highway, Kamal agreed to take us that route.
A whole new set of delights awaited us on a road far less travelled. And sure enough there was a distinct lessening of traffic, especially the killer trucks. Some parts of the road were just mud and water and large stretches were encumbered by roadworks, often to put in irrigation for the fields so whole villages were involved in digging and laying pipes under the road. We manoeuvred our way around, as villagers smiled in surprise to see foolhardy tourists chugging along.
Kamal popped another CD on for us and lo and behold this too featured Sexy Naughty Bitch and this time we worked out who the singer reminded us of. She was obviously India's answer to Britney Spears and along with her gyrating masterpiece we were treated to loads more pop hits, the equivalent of Now That's What I Call Bollywood the whole way to Jaipur.
As the cloud thickened and the sun disappeared behind an overcast sky we passed through ancient, decaying Rajasthani fortress towns built by local kings many years ago with city walls still intact and teeming with locals spilling onto the streets, children flying kites and even a man carrying a bed on his head.
Stopping nearby for more roadworks children ran up to the car and posed for a photo then stuck out their hands clamouring for payment. Gesturing that they were to share it all, they nodded understanding so I got out 20 rupees. Quick as a flash, the tallest child snatched it and ran off, pursued by the yelling others.
About two hours after departing Ranthambore we got to Tonk. A large city with colonial buildings and an ornately decorated palace my plan was to stop off and have a quick nose around but time was creeping on and with the colourless sky making everything look rather pallid we sped past, mindful of reaching Jaipur before nightfall.
The road north after Tonk improved immediately, meaning large quantities of lorries, multicoloured and painted like gypsy caravans, started pouring towards us. Kamal proved expert again at weaving our way between the tide. And with so much traffic it wasn't surprising to see dead animals beside the road, though sadly the sight of dogs turned carrion-eaters as they feasted on roadkill was more unpleasant.
With about 60km to go to reach Jaipur the landscape started once more to become dustier and remind us we were entering desert lands. And slowly the city started to develop, a sprawling mass of new Jaipur, where dual carriageways are lined with glistening car showrooms cheek-by-jowl with shanty towns. Standing proud a building emblazoned with Advanced Chickpea Research Institute, obviously an essential government body, stood out and we watched the sky fill with kites, which it transpires are flown by children from rooftops across the city.
After negotiating Jaipur's notorious traffic Kamal brought us safe and sound to Shahpura House, our heritage hotel and we were greeted with tomato soup and a sorely needed bathroom. After five hours of non-stop driving we could stretch our legs and relax.
