It transpires we’ve signed up for an extended hike exploring a large section of the desert, whereas most tourists just go to see the first few hundred metres. So Gregorio is pleased to see that we’ve got plenty of water and are dressed in our full African safari outfits with built in sun protection, plus have slathered factor 50 on our face and hands, liberally sprayed insect repellent on exposed parts and have our big wide-brimmed hats on. He beats us though with factor 60 and a magnificent sombrero that suits him perfectly. 

After yesterday’s over-exertions Milton and Marlio promise we’ll have a more relaxed day today, taking in more of the stunning scenery around San Agustin, visiting some more archaeological sites and ending up at one of the finest traditional coffee farms in the region. And we have an auspicious start, driving past a cheerful chap picking coffee at the side of the road who is very happy for us to take his photo as he works. 

We’ve come to San Agustin, like most visitors, to learn more about the ancient pre-Hispanic cultures who lived here thousands of years ago and mysteriously disappeared, leaving no written record, but a wealth of stone statues and tombs indicating their belief systems and way of life. We’re also going to explore some of the dramatic scenery of the Colombian Massif, where rivers and mountains form, and thick jungles and forests give way to pretty farmlands, particularly the coffee plantations for which San Agustin is famous. 

Up until this point the road has been continuously winding its way around curving mountain ranges and hairpin bends with many parts of it un-tarmacked. We’ve been warned to expect a bumpy ride but it’s this 31km stretch through the national park that really puts the car’s suspension to the test, being completely unpaved. We bounce along the rocky path reaching the highest point at 3190 metres above sea level, which Marlio shows us in a handy app on his phone; just one hand on the steering wheel as we roll along the shifting, potholed road. From here we start our descent but still have miles of buttock-pounding mountain track to go. 

Like its more famous colonial counterpart, Cartagena , Popayan’s historic centre is a real gem. It’s full of grand churches and public buildings, with Hispanic mansions and beautiful, old streets leading to a pretty plaza at its heart with a grand cathedral and clock tower. Yet the similarity with Cartagena stops there for, unlike that multi-coloured gem, the entire historic centre is dazzling white. Every building is whitewashed to create a monochromatic vision, giving the city its moniker, La Ciudad Blanca. And unlike Cartagena, it’s a ghost town, and seems completely empty.

Leaving the downtown area we drive to the Obrero neighbourhood, which is the home of what’s known as ‘vieja guardia’ (old school) salsa. It refers to people, mostly born in the 1950s who danced through the ‘70s and early ‘80s, the golden age of salsa in the city, when Cali became the capital of the dance phenomenon. Salsa music had first started in NYC in the early 1900s but in the 1930s, residents in Cali started to pick up Cuban radio and salsa suddenly exploded in the city, and within a few years Cali was known to have the fastest salsa in the world - vieja guardia. 

Descending into the valley once more we enter its most remarkable area, the hillsides where the iconic national tree of Colombia, the towering wax palms, reside. At sixty metres tall they are the biggest palms on earth and look incredible. Their appearance is enhanced by the fact that for almost two centuries local farmers have cleared the forests around them to allow for grazing, and have chopped lots of them down for their palm oil, so the remaining ones stand out in stark beauty. This world-famous landscape is sadly a tale of destruction and deforestation which Adrian tells us most Colombians are oblivious too. He says they’re too busy partying and obsessed with their meat-rich diet to care. 

After a while we reach Rio Cauca, one of Colombia’s major rivers, and the road follows its path through the valley, surrounded by thick forest. Occasionally we see armed military at various points along the road, stationed to deter kidnappers from trying to stop vehicles, and they cheerily give us a thumbs up as we pass. We’re assured by Sol and Jorge that we’re not targets as victims are usually known to the groups and are specifically chosen, so we just put it out of our minds and remain transfixed by the absolutely glorious scenery. 

The landscapes of Antioquia, the department surrounding Medellin, are renowned as some of the most beautiful in Colombia, so for our final day here we join a group tour heading to two of eastern Antioquia’s most popular sights; the giant rock El Peñol and the neighbouring town of Guatape, with its uniquely decorated buildings.

We’re setting off on a journey to discover some of Medellin’s dark past and how the terrible violence of the cocaine trade destroyed a generation of lives here, and across the country, before the death of the infamous head of the Medellin cartel Pablo Escobar enabled the city to start building a new chapter. We start by walking through El Poblado to the Metro station so we can take advantage of Medellin’s extensive public transport network. It’s the only city in Colombia to have built a Metro system, and it connects trains to trams, buses and most impressively cable cars, to link the entire city together.

Next to the museum is an imitation Antioquian village called Pueblito Paisa, with a stone square, church, fountain, mayor’s office, cute replica houses with balconies and more, showcasing the kind of traditional architecture found in the region’s old towns like Santa Fe de Antioquia and the beautiful Jardin. It’s very cute, like a Disney version of a colonial village, but teeming with tourists and full of souvenir shops. However the views of Medellin spread across the Aburra valley are undeniably impressive. 

Developers and foreigners offered families large sums of money to move out but in doing so, the vibrant Afro-Caribbean culture that thrived in Getsemani started to become lost. So in 2016, artists and local leaders got together to persuade residents not to sell up for a quick buck but to cherish and develop what they have themselves. People started to paint their houses in an array of colours and street art was encouraged everywhere. Getsemani started to become a cool and funky destination in its own right. 

Our walking tour meanders through the main highlights in the city, taking in the grand central Plaza de los Coches, where carriages used to park once they had entered through the city gates, and Plaza de la Adouna, which houses the old Customs Houses and government buildings. This was the square where over one million African slaves were brought over two centuries to be branded and traded, and in marked contrast is now full of Christmas decorations.

Feliz Navidad! While friends and family back home are settling down to their Christmas Day lunch we’re celebrating by piling our bags into the back of Juan Carlos’ car and leaving Palomino, on a five hour drive. Soon we get to a toll booth and as Juan Carlos winds down the window we can feel the outside heat and it’s ferocious. The highway continues in long straight lines, with cactus plants and heat haze making the scenery desert-like, until we stop at a service station and treat Juan Carlos to a Christmas lunch of a cheese and pepperoni pastry, plus coffee and coco-cola at a Formica table.

However, as dusk falls and the music starts pumping it becomes clear that this is not going to be a tranquil retreat. In fact The Dreamer, is more of a backpacker’s “party hostel” than the chilled hotel it first appears to be. After a few hours of thumping dance beats we decide to go in search of more suitable accommodation for travellers who don’t intend to party all night long but it quickly transpires that despite the loud music, our accommodation is actually as top-end as it gets, and being peak season any other prices are sky high for a lot less. 

We carry on in the blazing sun, protected by the shade of the jungle, eading to the iconic beach of Cabo San Juan de Guía which features in every guidebook of the park. It doesn’t disappoint and we sit there nursing a cold beer watching the masses who have made it swimming in the beautiful sea. Rather than do the same, we trace our steps back to the quieter beach of La Piscina where we go for a swim and then have a traditional local lunch of cayeye; mashed green bananas with tomato and onions. 

Santa Marta used to be referred to as the Pearl of the Caribbean, and it is still one of the most important ports in Colombia. We walk along the seafront in absolutely scorching sunshine, seeking shade wherever we can and watching our ice creams melt instantly down our fingers. Andreas, our guide, tells us that this year has been outrageously hot and the usual northern breeze, called La Loca, that can at times bring a bit of cooling relief, has been in short supply recently.   

Before we know it we’re bumping along the cobbled streets of the most picturesque village in the whole of Colombia. It’s so gorgeous that 40 years ago it was awarded the honour of Most Beautiful Colombian Pueblo by national decree. So it’s no wonder that we learn Disney used it as the inspiration for the village in the recent film ‘Encanto’ and as we pull up outside our hotel, Misión Santa Barbara, we can see why.

Eventually we reach our destination of Villa de Leyva, a stunning colonial town, founded by the Spanish in 1572, and still boasting many original buildings. As it’s still light we decide to explore a little and walk into the historical heart of the town and are instantly wowed by its beauty. The main attraction is the Plaza Mayor, which is one of the biggest public squares in the whole of Latin America, at an astounding 14000 square metres. It really is vast, and as dusk starts to fall, huge dark clouds are gathering overhead. 

It’s over 15 years since I first set foot in Bogotá and having been in the whirlwind of a Maiden tour back then, all I got to see were armed police escorts, security personnel, hotel interiors and a dramatic open-air concert where we were semi-evacuated for our own safety. Since then I’ve been keen to return and experience a different side to Colombia, one of the most beautiful and fascinating countries on earth, which has long been hampered by a reputation for guerrilla warfare and drug cartels.