We’ve been lucky to stay in some fabulous hotels around the world but Hotel B is undoubtedly amongst the very best. A grand old colonial residence it has been refashioned from dereliction into one of the most tasteful, sumptuous, contemporary interiors we’ve yet seen and has a treasure trove of modern art throughout. It’s essentially the house Coman and I would build if money was no object.

Arequipa is not just known as Peru’s second city but as Ciudad Blanco – the White City. We’d seen the glorious main square, lit with dusky yellow last night, but it’s in daylight that its nickname is properly revealed. The heart of the old city is built with the local white volcanic stone, and our hotel is no exception; the al fresco breakfast outside our suite is taken in the stone courtyard.

The reason we are in this part of Peru is to witness the sight of condors flying on thermal air currents high over the Colca Canyon. The sacred bird of the Incas, and most Andean civilisations. It represents divinity; a connection with the heavens. 

Having fallen asleep completely overwhelmed by altitude sickness I awake at midnight feeling much better and when the alarm goes off at 6am I’m almost back to normal, just a residual altitude headache nudging at my temples. 

We wake to a view of dawn over the lake and thankfully the discombobulating effects of altitude have abated, leaving just a mild headache behind. Another pill popped and breakfast taken and we are met by a guide called Gustavo who leads us down the hotel’s private pier to a reed jetty to await our boat. 

Today we’re stepping back in time, to an era when travel was sedate and luxurious, where the upper classes traversed large distances in style…

Our morning is “at leisure” so, having asked our waiter for any tips of things to see not covered by our afternoon itinerary, and with a bit of shopping in mind, we head out to explore. We start with a wander up Calle Palacio and then nip into the House of Cacao to buy some chocolate. Next door is a souvenir shop…

Next morning the alarm goes off at 5.45 but a quick look out of our balcony at the enormous queue for the bus already snaking way up the hill confirms what Edy told us - it’s pointless trying to be the first into Machu Picchu. Far better to have a proper breakfast and let the queues subside as they’ll not catch the fabled sunrise anyway.

Edson, a new guide from the Metropolitan tour company that Trailfinders have sub-contracted us to, is waiting for us this morning, along with our previous driver Cira. The twenty minute journey culminates with a boneshaking drive into Ollantaytambo along cobbled streets, at which point we leave our large luggage bags with Cira, who will be ferrying them ahead of us to Cusco, and board the train to Aguas Calientes, the entry point for Machu Picchu, with just our overnight bags, sun cream and cameras.

The couple at the table next to us at breakfast seem to be drinking wine. It’s only just gone 7am and their wine glasses are half full with a golden liquid. I know we’re not averse to the odd tipple now and again, but chardonnay for breakfast?

Almost immediately after departing Lima we’re flying high over the Andes, its spectacular landscapes jagged and snow-capped, tundra-like and barren, a mixture or red, yellows, greens and browns, dotted with lakes and snaking rivers.

Arguably Peru’s most famous (fictional) resident was once Paddington Bear and in Larco Parque, near the British Embassy, now lives a statue of the marmalade-loving creature. Naturally our new selfie stick is brandished and we get our snap. 

It seems somewhat strange to be leaving the sunny streets of London, and the longest, hottest summer Europe has had in my lifetime, for the tail end of winter on the other side of the planet, but we are almost giddy with excitement at the adventure that lies ahead. Almost a year in the planning, we are returning to South America to tick off one of the greatest sights on any traveller’s bucket list - Machu Picchu and the wonders of Peru.