We’ve been lucky to stay in some fabulous hotels around the world but Hotel B is undoubtedly amongst the very best. A grand old colonial residence it has been refashioned from dereliction into one of the most tasteful, sumptuous, contemporary interiors we’ve yet seen and has a treasure trove of modern art throughout. It’s essentially the house Coman and I would build if money was no object.
Having been given the tour last night when we arrived, and slept well in our incredibly comfortable bed, we’ve fallen hook, line and sinker for it, and wish we had chosen it for our first few nights in Lima rather than this brief stopover. I’m all guns blazing to explore the local area but Coman, nursing an upset stomach, opts to luxuriate longer in the hotel, returning to bed after breakfast, while I head out to discover the joys of Barranco.
The fabulous Hotel B
This area of Lima is very up and coming, an arty, bohemian district, which feels like a Hispanic Shoreditch by the sea. Colourful and funky murals are emblazoned on the sides of buildings, with little parks and colonial architecture culminating in a pretty main square, although the overcast skies make everything feel a bit flat and grey compared to the glorious sun-drenched brightness elsewhere.
Museums, galleries, bars and restaurants abound with cool houses, government embassies and paths down to the sea front. I make mental notes of places to revisit later and after an hour’s wandering, return to Hotel B to check if Coman is feeling better.
Graffiti in Barranco
A piping hot bath in the ridiculously opulent bathroom revives us both and, bags packed for the long flight home, we leave our luggage at reception and retrace my steps through Barranco to the MATE, the Mario Testino museum. Huge displays of his incredible photography adorn the walls, with rooms devoted to celebrity, fashion, Peruvian subjects and Princess Diana. It’s a fascinating and very well done exhibition to Peru’s most famous son, and by the time we leave I’m ready for lunch.
Wandering back towards our hotel we pass a newly built concrete compound we’d assumed to be a government building, but espy its gate is now open and security guards with ear-pieces are manning the entrance. Their badges display the word ‘Central’ and a quick peek through the gate sees the name emblazoned on the designer building inside. Could it be…?
At MATE, the Mario Testino museum
We ask one of the taciturn guards, “Is this Central restaurant?” and he nods. Coman wastes no time telling him that I’ve been trying to get a booking here for months and without saying much to us he starts talking into his ear-piece but gestures for us to wait. A little perplexed we do, in silence, and after a couple of minutes a well-dressed man emerges and slowly walks down the path though the gardens to greet us.
“I believe you’d like to join us for lunch?” he asks to our disbelief. “We have no room in our main restaurant but you’re welcome to have lunch in our bar if you’d like?”
Seriously?! We have only a few hours left in the country until our flight home and at the very last minute we finally have a chance to dine in One Of The Five Best Restaurants In The World… YES PLEASE!!
At the remarkable Central restaurant
We’re led into the geometric building and taken into Mayo, the bar off the main restaurant, which is empty, and given a table under a heater, next to a manicured cactus garden and close to their molecular gastronomic laboratory. I’m as excited as a child at Christmas to be presented with the mind-boggling menu, but Coman, still struggling with an upset stomach, declares he can’t actually eat anything. This genuinely is one of those once-in-a-lifetime opportunities to eat at a restaurant that people spend thousands of pounds to fly into for hugely-sought after bookings, and my poor husband can’t manage a morsel.
The main restaurant serves a degustation menu of 17 courses but we only have a couple of hours before we’re due back at the airport and so I choose three dishes to sample; MIL Potatoes in Clay and Andean Soil with Uchucutas sauce; raw Scallops with Tarwi Cheese, dusted avocado and Kañihua, a type of quinoa; and Scorched Plantain with essence of Cocona fruit and a Cream Cheese. They’re served with a fine glass of Chilean red and rounded off with a Café cocktail in place of dessert, which comprises vodka, kafa, 3 Monkeys coffee and Amazonian 7 seeds. It tastes like liquid tiramisu.
At Central
Coman watches me consume this array of epicurean delight whilst drinking a simple glass of coca cola, but accepts the waitresses’ recommendation of a Peruvian hot drink for unsettled stomachs, called a Maca Emoliente, which proves both tasty and effective. Once we’ve finished, they offer us a tour of the kitchens, wine cellars and newly finished dining areas – a treat that rounds off our visit in style. Having spent much of our time in Peru wishing we’d had the chance to eat in Central, our accidental experience has more than lived up to expectation.
We walk back along sea front again to Hotel B where afternoon tea is being served. Thanks to the Maca Emoliente, Coman’s appetite is recovering just in time for this so he tucks into a couple of sandwiches and some dainty cakes, all served in the library. It’s our last hurrah, the final taste of Peru as - while we sip tea from elegant china - Rodolfo appears to chauffeur us to the airport once again, and our long flight home.
What a remarkable trip we’ve had in a beautiful country. The landscapes and people, food and history have all been spectacular, surpassing our wildest dreams and providing one of the greatest adventures we’ve had to date. So we bid a fond farewell to Peru and a toast to all the people we’ve met… one day we hope to return!
